[AskiaLuna]

I have already seen people simply dissolve these colour chips in room temperature without grinding them, it only takes a little longer.

I have to dissolve my home made paints with warm water so that I can use them, which is totally impractical when there is no kettle nearby. I suspect that the colour chips and the colors in the porcelain bowls have a different binder than rabbit skin glue because they are so easy to dissolve. Put an ink stick in water at room temperature and it dissolves very little ink, so it has to be grounded to get a lot of ink, which is more gentle than pouring very warm water over it, which would be way too much ink to work with if I could use it to dissolve an entire ink stick.

I read that the chips are often given as a binder resin and that comes from plants. Which one is used for colour chips?

I found a video on YouTube where peach sap glue has been added to the ink so that it runs less on the paper and stays moist longer on the palette. Peach sap glue is also a resin and resins are added to paints as binders.

Gum Arabic would run too much and is not suitable for Xuan paper while peach resin even has the property that the colour runs less and is more suitable.

As for the Maries colors I have them in a blue box with 18 colors in 9ml tubes, and they are very intense, they were the only ones that were available at Amazon at the time, I should have bought all three packs.

[AskiaLuna]

Thanks for the answer, I haven’t looked in here for a long time.

I wanted to know if the description oil and pine soot was correct, because they are often exchanged and somehow all ink sticks that are available in Germany are often described as Pine soot even though they are different varieties.

Here I have the impression that only industrial soot is student grade and everything that has other soot types is at least professional grade. So student grade pine and oil soot ink exists. I just thought it was interesting, I didn’t buy it, I wanted to wait and see.

I have a small cheap industrial soot ink stick for on the go-to practice in my sketchbook. but I didn’t notice a real difference to the others only that the ink is not as cool as from my pine soot ink stick

[AskiaLuna]

I have both ink sticks and the Qing Mo is greener than pine soot because it is a different type of soot and the green tea ink stick is also a cool black because of the green tea, a little cooler than my pine soot ink stick.

So they are both cooler blacks.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by AskiaLuna.

[AskiaLuna]

Even if the topic was some time ago, what I have to write here may also interest others

Japanese papers are usually less absorbent than Chinese ones. The popular Gasen-Shi paper is made in China and Japan and is therefore Xuan paper. Chinese varieties are more absorbent than Japanese varieties because of the different development of ink painting styles.

I would use at least half-sized or slightly thicker paper so that it doesn’t run as much and is easier for beginners to handle, which is more similar to Japanese Gasen-Shi. The luminosity, transparency and the diverse nuances of the ink are supported by Gasen-Shi.
In general, it can be said that in Japan there is more experimentation with different plants and there are more different types of paper.

Otherwise, there are basic types that I know from the description:

Kozo-Shi
Kozo is a mulberry plant and from the bark of it this paper is made when painting slightly rough dry areas which express force or fast movement and speed. This paper has only a moderate absorbency and is therefore easier to handle, although in comparison to untreated Gasen-Shi it has the disadvantage that colours cannot be reproduced so richly.

Dosabiki-Ma-Shi
Ma means hemp and Dosabiki means preparing the paper with alum and glue. The more this paper was treated, the less the nuances of the ink come into play. Since the paper is very tough, the ink or colour can be layered and blurred several times

Torinoko-Shi is made from Gampi fibres and has a smooth surface and is used for detailed images. It absorbs liquid poorly and this means that contours can be blurred with water afterwards, creating smooth transitions. The ink is less intense and transparent on this paper and fine shades of tone are not so easy to produce.
This paper is very similar to hot press watercolour paper only thinner.

In general, it can be said that with papers that represent the ink well, the colors are poorer, either the one or the other both do not seem to go together.

Wa-Shi simply means Japanese paper, the prefix Wa is used as an abbreviation for Japanese, otherwise it can mean peace, harmony or a mathematical sum. Another name for Japanese paper is Wagami.

Han-Shi is 26×34 cm in size and is a paper form that is used for practice and not a special type of paper.

Shiki-Shi are mounted papers on paperboards and are often presented as a gift.

These Japanese papers are quite difficult to get in Europe and often there are only very special ones to buy and not these standard types. As far as I know, Japanese paper is imported by the company Römerturm in Germany. The website of a paper manufacturer https://awagami.com/collections/fine-art-papers so you can see what kinds of Wa-Shi existed.

I think it’s sad that there is no major Japanese calligraphy and painting shop in Europe, even if a smaller company like Kremer-Pigments manages to have a shop in New York in addition to the shop in Germany.

 

[AskiaLuna]

How do I notice the differences when using whether something is simple student quality with industrial soot or higher professional quality?

I painted some test sheets with different ink and couldn’t really see a difference in quality, I only saw a colour difference with different types of soot.

In the case of very cheap ink sticks, there are often coarse particles in them, they have a matt chalky appearance and do not smell as good as those that cost a little more money.

impractical that I don’t speak French ?

• This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by AskiaLuna.

[AskiaLuna]

Thanks for the compliment. 🙂

I try to make some colors myself if I can not buy them.

I just like muted colors.

I also know the problem with the tubes, but more of inexpensive water color tubes are in the drawer for decades.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 1 month ago by AskiaLuna.

[AskiaLuna]

Unfortunately, I came so late to make some colors and it is easier than I thought. 🙂

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOQOigwRZR8

I went after this instruction.

I have resolved too much gelatin, because it may be too fluid for me.
No problem I used less glue and added some water.

I do not know why, but my colors glitter a bit. ???
I used pure pigments from Kremer.

Yellow ocher light, golden ocher, green earth and Venetian red I made.

The gold ocher was too orange for me, then I made yellow ocher color.
Is it really normal, if I want to use the color again, that I have to warm up the color briefly?

So I can use it, otherwise dissolves very little color.

[AskiaLuna]

I once bought a few papers from this online shop, and they have no lines in it.

Most paper there is half glued. I in your place would glue the paper itself.

https://www.china-deko-arts.de/kuenstlerbedarf/xuan-reis-papier/?view_mode=tiled&listing_sort=price_asc&listing_count=100

[AskiaLuna]

Thank you for your explanation :-).

Is it very noticeable that the hair has a better quality or just a bit?

I try to order it so in my vacation that it will arrive when I’m back.

[AskiaLuna]

Nice that I’m not alone with the problem.

Thanks for the tip with the colors, but I could have come on it earlier to ask here.

I have my holiday over next week on monday, then go to crete for 3 weeks.

For the next time this is a very good idea.
I still have very small colored ink sticks, they should work too.
I would only need to take an extra inkstone with me, they have unfortunately weight.

[AskiaLuna]

Do high quality expensive brushes last longer than cheap ones?

[AskiaLuna]

great, thank you :-).

If I want to mix a color for a painting soon, then I know where I have to look.

[AskiaLuna]

Great, I’ll take a look at that :-).
Thank you very much.

[AskiaLuna]

Thanks, I’ll take a look at that :-).

Maybe there will be one later.

 

[AskiaLuna]

I only use ground ink.

I would like that I can adjust it, whether a line is bleeding or not.

What do I have to do to make this work? I still have a roll Wenzhou paper, it is made of mulberry bark.

Otherwise it would be a shame about the paper, if it is not used.

Yesterday I made some glue and put very little of it in a bowl and then added the same amount of water.

I thought that would only be enough for 1-2 sheets about 25cm * 30cm, but in the end it was enough for 8.

I tried it on a few other papers. The rest of the glue I have frozen.

I have 1 and a half teaspoon animal glue and a half and a quarter teaspoon of alum.

A bit of water to make the glue swell and then a cup of hot water about 80 degrees Celsius which then with the existing water to something around 60 degrees Celsius (the ideal Themperatur for glue).

When it was cool, I gave the alum and waited until it had dissolved.

At the moment I do not have the money to buy other special things.

thank you for your post 😉

 

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